We hope you will join us at the CAHPI(BC) booth at this year’s BC Home & Garden Show at the newly renovated BC Place Stadium, February 22nd – 26th.

Over 425 experts will be on hand to help with your design, renovation and landscaping dilemmas.

In most BC homes built prior to 1990, the presence of some building materials with asbestos is almost always present. It was commonly used in office buildings, public buildings and schools. It insulated hot water heating systems and was put into walls and ceilings as insulation against fire and sound. It has also been found in many products around the house: clapboard; shingles and felt for roofing; exterior siding; pipe covering; compounds and cement; textured and latex paints; acoustical ceiling tiles and plaster; vinyl floor tiles; and appliance wiring to name a few.

Canada Mortgage & Housing Corporation (CMHC) cautions: “To avoid health risks through prolonged exposure to asbestos fibres, proper precautions must be taken when repairs or renovations disturb asbestos-containing materials, such as: disturbing loose-fill vermiculite insulation which may contain asbestos; removing deteriorating roofing shingles and siding containing asbestos; ripping away old asbestos insulation from around a hot water tank; sanding or scraping vinyl asbestos floor tiles; breaking apart acoustical ceiling tiles containing asbestos; sanding or scraping older water-based asbestos coatings such as roofing compounds, spackling, sealants, paint, putty, caulking or drywall….”.

You can find more information at www.cmhc.ca. Safe practices for handling asbestos can be found at www.WorkSafeBC.com.

Recognizing and disclosing the possibility of asbestos is not within the scope of your home inspection. If your inspector suspects the presence of asbestos, he/she may suggest further evaluation and analysis by a qualified professional.

Source: Lynch Building Inspection Services Ltd. of Nelson, BC.
Originally appeared in The Nelson Express.

Every winter during the colder stretches the eaves on the roof of our house get a thick layer of ice build-up. This year I noticed water stains on the inside of our living room wall right where the wall meets the ceiling. I suspect it is related to the ice. Do you have any ideas or suggestions about this ice and the water stains?

From your description this sounds like a common problem caused by ice damming. In the industry your roof “makes ice”. The most common reason for this problem is a lack of attic ventilation at or near the junction of the rafters or trusses to the outside walls of your house. Often attic insulation has been carelessly pushed up against the underside of the roof deck in this triangular shaped area within a foot or two of the outside building walls. The insulation is warmer than the snow on the outside roof shingles. Because the insulation is in contact with the underside of the roof deck, the snow on the other side of the roof deck melts along this insulated area for a foot or two near the eaves. As the melting snow (water) travels down beyond the outside walls to the unheated eaves, the water freezes. Ice dams form along these eaves and the dammed water problem increases as the ice dams build in thickness. (This problem can also occur in uninsulated attics.)

When the liquid behind the ice dam backs up the water often find its way under the shingles. This usually happens directly above the outside walls because the warm air escaping from your attic keeps the melting snow water in a liquid state. This water can now find its way down into the outside wall cavities. In turn, the water will often appear as stains near the top of exterior walls on either the inside or outside of the walls.

Some folks resort to a quick and simple answer to the problem. They install heat tape along the eaves of the roof. This melts the ice dams eliminating the potential for water build-up behind the ice dams. But this solution does not address the fundamental problems. Here are some suggestions for eliminating the problem.

First, go up in your attic and remove any insulation in contact with the underside of the roof deck. You can also install insulation baffles that will help hold the insulation down and away from the deck of the roof at the rafter junctions with the outside walls. If you have little or no attic ventilation through your soffits, gable ends and at the ridge of your roof, definitely install more of each. Then go outside. With a ladder on your roof eaves lift up the first course of shingles at the eaves. There should be one or two layers of felt paper under the shingles (dampproofing). This dampproof layer is the last line of defense against ice damming. It is installed to at least one foot above the outside wall of your home and its purpose is to help carry off water that may build up under shingles from ice damming. If you don’t have a layer of dampproofing felt you don’t have the final line of defense. Correct the insulation and ventilation problems first and the next time you install new shingles install the dampproof course at all the building eaves.

Source: Lynch Building Inspection Services Ltd. of Nelson, BC
Originally appeared in The Nelson Express

During a recent heavy rainfall I found water coming in under our foundation wall. We have figured out how to stop it, but the water has spread under interior walls, carpet and cabinets throughout our basement. We’re concerned about the potential for mould and whether we should contact our insurance agent. Please reply ASAP.

First, call your insurance agent immediately and report the details of the flood. Expect that your agent will advise you to hire a professional flood clean-up contractor. Make sure you hire a contractor who is trained in flood restoration and mould remediation because specialized equipment and knowledge is essential to ensure the clean up is carried out properly. A fast, thorough clean-up will help ensure that mould growth will not occur.

Before the contractor begins clean up make sure you have the moisture source under control. Within 48 hours of the flood dispose of all water damaged items that cannot be salvaged and thoroughly dry fixed items like cabinets to avoid mould growth. Your clean-up contractor will have large vacuums and dryers to help in this process.

Check for mould growth behind wallpaper, wall cavities, under wood subfloors, bottoms wood framed walls and crawl spaces. If you find mould growth advise your contractor who will safely remove it. Make sure all cleaning and repairs have been completed thoroughly and to your satisfaction before you advise your insurance agent that the work is complete.

Source: Lynch Building Inspection Services Ltd. of Nelson, BC.
Originally appeared in The Nelson Express.

My home has a crawlspace under it. I know I’m supposed to be opening and closing the vents but I don’t know when.

Here are a few tips that will help keep your crawlspace healthy. Open the vents in early spring and don’t re-seal them until late fall. Make sure the screens are in good repair and seal all other openings to ensure insects and small animals don’t take up residence under your home.

If your crawlspace is not heated consider insulating the underside of your floor. Hold the insulation in place with chicken wire or 1″ x 4″ strapping. Install several vents to ensure there is good air circulation, especially at shallow “hard to get to” areas. If you don’t have an access hatch or service trenches to the shallow areas of the crawlspace it would be beneficial to do so for periodic inspection of your home’s structure. If you have a dirt floor install a 6-mil U. V. rated polyethylene vapour barrier throughout. Overlap and seal the plastic seams with “tuck tape” and caulk the plastic tight to pony walls, footings, plumbing pipes and foundation walls with acoustic sealant or tape. When complete, you will have created a much healthier crawlspace for you and your home.